Gallery Ensign: Ornaments of Beauty

Hair has always been synonymous with beauty for women. At times it has also been associated with holding mystical powers – which is why one sees numerous representations of gods and goddesses with long, flowing hair.

From ancient times, civilization has created ornaments to adorn the hair and to enhance its beauty. The Japanese art of kanzashi which literally means ornamental hair pin is an art form that was developed to enhance the prevalent hairstyles of a particular period. Records show that this art form appeared around 7 BC and there is discussion on it making an appearance even before this age. These ornaments were also considered to have powers that could ward off evil spirits.

An Ogi-Bira Kanzashi : A Kanzashi of the Princess-Dangling style

Soon the craftsmanship of kanzashi reached a high point with the creation of numerous styles and designs. Each kanzashi could also signify special meaning – about the mood of the woman, her age, occupation and class. For instance, upper class women would wear more conservative kanzashi.

Traditional kanzashi would be made of gold, silver, tortoise shell and wood. Kanzashi were even based on seasons and special events. Popular kanzashi were those that mimicked nature - plum blossom seems to have been the favorite flower kanzashi amongst women. These kanzashi are also known as tsumami kanzashi or folded fabric hair ornament. These kanzashi are made of kimono silk that has been starched in a home-made rice paste. Usually the silk is cut into 1” squares which are then folded (using origami techniques) into petals. Flowers are then formed from these folded petals and can contain from five to 75 petals each. Sometimes this kanzashi is also called a hana kanzashi – a cluster of flowers. If the kanzashi has hanging elements then it is termed as a tsumami kanzashi.

A many petalled Kanzashi

Even though over a period of time the use of kanzashi declined, it continued to find favor with maiko (apprentice geisha) and at Shinto weddings. Today kanzashi is worn by brides, professional kimono wearers and even young Japanese business executives. Their chief function remains as ornaments of beauty. Their ability to mesmerize the voyeur ceases to diminish. And their presence continues to bring eternal joy.